Although a kennel is built primarily for the comfort, health and convenience of dogs, it should also be designed for easy cleaning and labor efficiency. Preliminary planning is necessary to determine the right location and size of the kennel building, size and number of inside pens and outside runs, drainage, building materials, proximity of neighbors, ventilation, sewage disposal and other factors.

Choosing a kennel location is a major consideration. It should be away from neighbors who may be bothered by barking dogs, free of zoning laws that would adversely affect the operation, and have good drainage and adequate land for expansion. In most parts of the country, a south or southeast exposure for runs is preferable to provide winter sun and protection against cold north winds.

Before selecting a site, you should check all city, county and state zoning laws in your area and find out if special licenses are required.

A kennel operation need not be complex to be successful. A practical approach together with sound planning can keep costs to a minimum and result in a facility that will be easy to manage, simple to maintain, and completely adequate for the comfort of the inhabitant.

KENNEL CONSTRUCTION

One of the most important considerations in building a kennel is that it be easy to clean and maintain. Consult a reliable contractor who is familiar with local building restrictions and construction techniques to allow for easy maintenance and proper drainage.

Wood flooring or walls should be avoided because of splinters, and because wood floors are almost impossible to clean and disinfect thoroughly. The floors inside the pens should be hard-surfaced so they can be washed easily. Concrete makes an excellent run flooring, but it must be well designed and well maintained to avoid cracks, depressions and rough places that are hiding places for insects, rodents and parasite eggs.

If gravel runs are used, droppings should be picked up at least once a day, several times a day if several dogs are kept in a small area.

Dogs sometimes dig holes or wear paths in the gravel as they run back and forth in the pen. Such holes should be raked full so water (a breeding ground for mosquitoes) and insects won't accumulate in them.

Holes and mud puddles in dirt runs can be a problem, and it is virtually impossible to disinfect dirt. Consequently, dirt runs are not recommended.

For efficiency in cleaning and maintenance, concrete and concrete block construction is generally recommended. Walls of this type, with concrete floors and kennel runs, make for a durable and economical commercial kennel structure. Frame buildings may be used, but they can present problems. Dogs will usually chew on wood, unless it is specially protected, and this not only creates an unfavorable appearance, but provides hiding places for bacteria and parasites. Wood absorbs more urine and urine odors than concrete, and wet wood deteriorates rapidly. The higher initial cost of a concrete and concrete block building is usually offset by lower maintenance costs, ease of cleaning, savings on insurance and general appearance.

A two-story dog-breeding unit at the Purina Pet Care Center, completed in 1973, incorporates many of the kennel designs and equipment uses we have found to be the most efficient and practical. On the first floor of this section are restroom facilities for employees, an office, lunch room, a dog-grooming facility, and a feed-mixing area. A separate room can be adapted for a number of uses, including puppy housing. The second floor is used for storing feed and a variety of other needed items.

Concrete block walls are used throughout. Exterior walls are of 8-inch blocks in the two-story section, and 6-inch in the one-story section. (Check your local building codes to determine what size concrete blocks are acceptable.) For added strength, reinforcing mesh was used at every third row during construction of exterior walls. Interior walls and partitions are all of 4 inch concrete block. The epoxy paint used to seal the new surface provides easy cleaning, which helps protect against disease and parasite infestation. It also aids in appearance.

In areas where winter freezing occurs, it is necessary to have footings poured to sub-freezing depths, particularly for concrete or concrete block construction. This helps protect against seasonal movement of the building and resultant wall damage. The roofing material selected for a kennel building may be whatever type is generally used in your area.

FOOD PREPARATION AREA

If you have a large kennel population, a special area to store and mix food and prepare feed pans is desirable. Each kennel unit at the Purina Pet Care Center contains a central food preparation area where daily feedings are prepared. Lightweight metal frame feed carts on rollers, with plastic bins attached for storage of rations, are used. The feed carts provide more working space for personnel, are easy to clean and offer less chance of insect and rodent infestation within the food preparation area. Large covered galvanized or plastic trash cans also work very well for feed storage and can be mounted on wheels. Where floor space is limited, many kennels use the grooming and washing area for mixing food for daily feedings.

Storage practices depend upon the amount of food that is stored. If only two or three 25-or 50-pound bags of dry ration are kept at a time, the bags can be emptied into feed carts or other closable containers. This keeps the food dry and helps prevent entry and contamination by rodents or insects. A large amount of dry food should be stored on wooden or steel benches which are 15- to 18-inches off the floor and 15- to 18-inches from the wall for easy cleaning. Tin wrapped around the legs of wooden benches aids in keeping insects and rodents from climbing up to the food. The entire food storage and preparation area should be free of insects and rodents and easy to keep clean.

GATES AND GUARD FENCE

For ease of access to the outside pen, a gate should be installed at the end of the run. If necessary, a lock can be used on the gate latch.

We also recommend that a guard fence be put around the perimeter of the outside runs. This fence should be 6- to 8-feet away from the end of the outside runs. The primary purpose of a guard fence is to prevent people and stray animals from coming in contact with the kennel dogs and to prevent a dog that may have gotten out of the kennel run gate from escaping. Gravel can be spread between the end of the runs and the guard fence for easy maintenance.

GROOMING & WASHING AREA

A separate grooming and washing room is recommended for routine dog care. The size of this room will vary depending upon the amount of equipment and number of dogs. Normally, a room 10 x 20 feet will be adequate. The grooming and washing room should have good lighting as well as hot and cold running water, have good ventilation, and be free from drafts. Equipment should include a bathtub and drain board that can be used in bathing dogs of all sizes, a grooming table, a cabinet for supplies and equipment, holding pens, and an area for drying dogs. A bathtub set high enough to bathe dogs without bending over is desirable. A wooden drain board covered with a rubber mat also serves as a ramp to help put large dogs in the tub. A cage with a portable dryer attached works well for drying dogs.

This room can also be used for washing equipment. Dog food and any other items that should not get wet or be stored under high humidity should not be kept in the washing and grooming area.

HALLWAY

A 6-foot interior hallway is recommended. This size is wide enough for most activities, yet narrow enough to permit efficient handling of dogs.

Good drainage is extremely important in any kennel facility. Nothing will cause more odor and sanitation problems than uneven floors with pockets of standing water and/or urine. Therefore, an evenly-sloped surface is essential. The type of concrete finish is also important. Our specifications call for a light broom finish, brushed toward the drainage trench. A surface that is too smooth can be slippery for the dog and caretaker, especially when wet. Conversely, an extremely coarse surface is difficult to keep clean and can wear down the pads on a dog's feet. The recommended broom finish circumvents both extremes.

INTERIOR PENS

Inside kennel pen dimensions can be as small as 4 x 4 feet. These may be adequate for some miniature and small breeds, but 4 x 6 feet, 6 x 6 feet, or 5 x 7 feet pens are preferred for medium and large breeds. The larger pens provide more working room and are more adaptable to whelping and multiple housing than are the small pens. The inside pens of dog breeder unit #2 at the Purina Pet Care Center are 5 x 7 feet with 5 x 20 feet outside runs, although 5 x 20 feet outside run dimensions would be adequate for one adult dog of any size breed. Inside this wing, 5-feet-4-inch-high partition walls of 4-inch concrete block with grouted tops are used. These are high enough to prevent an animal from climbing over into the next stall, but low enough so that common sources of heat, ventilation and light can be utilized.

A door that can be utilized by both caretaker and dog is positioned to one side of the inside pen outer wall and is directly in line with the pen door that leads to the center hall. This door arrangement gives the dog a resting place free from drafts. A wooden resting platform or whelping box is placed in the protected portion of each open.

As a constant water source, automatic watering cups attached to the wall are convenient. Water flows automatically when the water in a bowl drops below the desired level and shuts off when the bowl is full. To maintain any type of automatic watering system in a kennel, weather temperatures should be above freezing or the water lines/waterers protected in some manner.

Water kept in pails or bowls should be suspended from hooks in the walls. Or pails as well as bowls can be fitted into brackets.

When an inside pen is cleaned, the wooden resting platform or whelping box is removed so that the area can be washed. Water lines are suspended from the ceiling so pipes do not interfere with cleaning. Since the floor of the inside pens slopes toward the hall, water and debris are washed in that direction and flow into a drain gutter located between the pen wall and hallway. The hallway slopes from its center to the gutter on each side so that everything flows into the gutters, which facilitates cleaning.

KENNEL DESIGN

In general, the Purina Pet Care Center uses a kennel plan which includes a utility area for offices, feed room, grooming, etc., either at one end or in the middle. Kennel wings extend out in one or two directions and include an inside hallway with inside pens along each side. The inside pens are connected to outside runs by two-way dog doors.

Most commercial kennels are initiated on a small scale and enlarge as the business grows. In the long run, you may save money by consulting a professional architect on how your kennel should be constructed to allow for future expansion. The architect should be familiar with building codes and ordinances pertaining to kennels in your community and can develop blueprints for your facility. Careful planning can help you avoid additional expense once you begin to develop your operation.

To obtain a full copy of our suggested kennel plans to share with your architect, call our toll free number 1-800-778-7462 (Monday through Friday, 9 AM to 4 PM CT) and speak to our Internet reps. Or send us your postal address via e-mail.

KENNEL DOORS

In all Purina Pet Center dog units, a commercially available double-swinging dog door is used that consists of an inward-opening plastic panel hinged to an outward-opening metal frame, which is mounted in an outward-opening full-size door. The dog door permits the dog to come and go as he pleases. To exit, he pushes on the door with his head, and the entire metal frame swings open. To enter, he again pushes on the door, and only the plastic insert swings open. Spring tension closes the door immediately after the dog has passed through, helping to keep out inclement weather and insects. Since the insert is made of clear plastic, it permits daylight to enter. This door is commercially available in different sizes and can be mounted in either a solid wood or metal standard door.

Sometimes it is necessary to restrict a dog's free in-and-out movement, such as keeping a brood matron in the outside run while examining or treating puppies. For this reason, kennel doors are equipped with a "guillotine" door, which rides up and down on metal tracks. It can be kept closed on extremely cold days to prevent dogs from going outdoors or when outside runs are being cleaned.

One other feature of this door is a crank-operated vent or window near the top. This vent/window can be opened in warm weather to increase ventilation and is screened to keep out insects. These vents, plus roof fans, are the only ventilation necessary to maintain dogs in comfort during warm weather in a well-insulated building. There are other types of top-hinged dog doors made of a variety of materials such as wood, fiberboard and rubber. However, they do not allow light to enter, and they tend to swing open in high winds, letting in cold air, rain, snow and insects.

KENNEL INTERIOR

In completing a kennel interior, the basic objectives are to provide adequate space and comfort for dogs, design a sanitation system that offers ease of cleaning and maintenance and provide kennel workers with the necessary equipment and environment to accomplish their daily tasks. A basic interior kennel design should include several working areas in addition to hallways and pens.

KENNEL LIGHTING

Both natural and artificial lighting should be used in kennel operations. Windows should be at least 5 feet above the floor to avoid breakage by dogs or so that bins, cabinets and other equipment can be placed against walls without interfering with natural light. In addition, an adequate number of incandescent or fluorescent fixtures should be installed in the ceiling. Wall plugs should not be installed in dog pens unless they are protected, such as behind whelping boxes, or encased in metal boxes that cannot be opened by dogs. These plugs should also be waterproof. Elsewhere, wall plugs should be high enough off the floor to avoid the danger of dogs chewing on electrical cords and to prevent contact with water.

KENNEL SANITATION

Good sanitation is an important factor in raising and maintaining healthy dogs. With proper care and diet, dogs that have the proper genetic background for normal growth and development usually realize their genetic potential.

If the kennels are not sanitary or if the environment is heavily contaminated with insects, parasites and/or rodents, dog performance and body condition can be impaired.

Whether a kennel is built for 5 dogs or 500, it is important that the facility be easy to clean and maintain. This should include minimizing areas for entry and eliminating possible hiding places for both insects and rodents.

Concrete kennel flooring is preferred for easy cleaning. Floors should be free of cracks, depressions and rough areas where water, insects, rodents, and/or eggs from internal parasites can lodge. Walls and ceilings should be in good condition for easy cleaning and to prevent rodent and insect entry. Drainage surfaces should be such that urine and wash water do not accumulate and create odor problems. Wood flooring in kennel facilities is difficult to clean and disinfect and can also cause splinters in dogs' feet. Consequently, it is not recommended except for dog resting platforms and boxes.

Inside the kennel, a power sprayer does a much faster and more effective job of scrubbing than a bucket and scrub brush, particularly in a large facility.

Follow label directions carefully for the use of any detergent or disinfectant. Never let dogs drink any cleaning solution, and never return them to their pens before the pens are thoroughly dry.

A thorough cleaning must precede the use of disinfectants. They function only as the final cleaning agent that will help kill disease and odor causing bacteria.

Cleaning is easier when equipment and supplies are stored in an orderly fashion in closed cabinets or on shelves rather than left sitting along the wall or on window sills.

Proper disposal of empty feed bags and other unnecessary items eliminates potential hiding places for insects and rodents.

A commercial-size vacuum cleaner does a good job of cleaning inside the kennel. Vacuuming takes less time and leaves less dust and hair than hand sweeping. The proper vacuum can also be used to pick up water.

Heaters and air conditioners should be cleaned and serviced regularly by professionals. Otherwise, they can become a habitat for certain types of insects.

KENNEL TEMPERATURE

A properly constructed kennel roof with sufficient insulation and ventilation helps control the adverse effects of summer heat and winter cold. Inside temperatures should be maintained in a comfortable range for working personnel. Winter temperatures high enough to keep waterers and water lines from freezing are generally satisfactory for most dogs. Heating pads placed in whelping boxes provide supplemental warmth for puppies. Floor heating, popular in many kennels, utilizes pipes or heat cables embedded in the floors. Floors with this type of heating dry quickly but tend to produce more odors than unheated floors in poorly ventilated buildings. If you decide to use this type of heating, consider installing the heat pipes or cables under half the floor on one side of the pens. This reduces costs and provides a safety feature so that dogs can move to the cooler side if overheating occurs. Gas or electric space heaters suspended from the ceiling have provided low maintenance heating service in many kennels.

Four to six inches of poured insulation or insulation bats are adequate for ceiling insulation. A fan to move air through the attic area will aid in cooling during summer months. Air conditioning is desirable in working rooms. In hot climates and in boarding and veterinary kennels, air conditioning throughout the kennel may be needed.

OUTSIDE RUNS

Both inside and outside run dimensions will depend upon the size of the dog, number of dogs per run, and length of stay. Outside runs that are 6 feet wide are easier to keep clean than runs 4 feet wide. Since dogs tend to run back and forth in pens, the wider pens allow dogs to avoid droppings, usually deposited in the lower end of the pen. For medium-size adult dogs housed full-time in the kennel, run length should be at least 20 feet.

Trees are not planted next to outside runs because leaves can clog the drains. Covering part of the pens will provide shade during the summer. A perforated plastic fabric can be stretched over a portion of the top of the pens to cut the heat of the sun while still allowing for ventilation. Another option, one widely used at the Purina Pet Care Center, is to install solid panels over part of the run for shade and to reduce snow accumulation on the runs.

The surface of outside runs should be designed for animal comfort and efficient maintenance. Gravel, dirt, asphalt, and concrete have all been used with varying success. The type of surface used is important for several reasons: it can have an effect on the dog's feet, parasite control is easier with certain types of surfaces, some surfaces are easier to clean, and some types help keep the dog(s) clean.

Concrete is generally considered to be the best surface for most kennels. It has a low maintenance cost, is attractive, and permits droppings and urine to be easily flushed into a gutter at the end of the runway for proper disposal. However, concrete contains pores, and unless properly sealed, may harbor parasites and bacteria. In addition, concrete runs should have a finely brushed finish to provide necessary traction so that kennel personnel and dogs will not slip or slide, particularly when the surface is wet. However, if the run surface is too rough, it can cause irritation to the dogs' feet. Asphalt has several disadvantages and is not recommended. It absorbs heat and can become extremely hot in direct sunlight on summer days. If the asphalt becomes soft, it can cause burning of the dogs' feet.

River gravel can be used satisfactorily where ample drainage is available and gravel is 6 to 8 inches deep. It permits parasite eggs and urine to leak through and be washed away. But on hot days, dogs may dig down through the gravel to the cool layer underneath. When an ample slope is provided for the efficient use of gravel runs, dogs have a tendency to work the gravel from the high end to the low end. In runs that are almost level, it is not unusual to see gravel piled a foot or more higher at each end than at the center. This is caused by dogs running and turning at each end of the run. Droppings in gravel are more difficult to clean up, which should be done daily no matter what type of run surface is used.

Grass and dirt are used successfully in some kennels where runs are large and long. However, dogs dig holes and create low places in dirt. Puddles may then form when it rains. Dogs become dirty easily and parasite control is difficult. Dirt runs are usually not recommended in a kennel facility.

FENCING

Chain-link fencing provides one of the most attractive, long-lasting, and relatively unclimbable enclosures for a kennel. At one time it was necessary to install steel posts and then stretch the fencing. Today several companies offer prestretched panels which they will build to your specifications. These panels are easier to install, and we have found them to be at least as strong as fencing that is stretched at the actual site.

Fencing around pens at the Purina Pet Care Center is 6 feet high. This is an adequate height to prevent most dogs from jumping or climbing out. However, some dogs can negotiate even this barrier. Having a 12- to 18-inch, 45-degree overhang around the tops of the runs or covering the tops of the runs with wire mesh are two possible solutions.

Since curbings are not used in the breeding unit, the bottom of the fence is about one inch above the run floor, permitting waste material to be flushed underneath. A support pipe at both the top and bottom of the fence helps maintain the fence's rigidity and appearance. If it were hung loosely, some dogs would try to crawl underneath; and if there were too much space below the bottom support pipe, an animal might reach through and have its paw or leg chewed by a dog in an adjoining run.

SANITATION EQUIPMENT

The best tools for cleaning depend upon the kennel type and size. Individual dog houses can be cleaned with a scrub brush and bucket, while larger facilities (particularly those boarding dogs) may be cleaned more rapidly and efficiently with a portable power sprayer. These are available from various equipment companies. A sprayer of this type can be used not only on the solid floors and walls of the building, but also on resting platforms, whelping boxes and other kennel equipment. Another advantage is that the unit has an attachment enabling detergents or disinfectants to be metered into the stream of water to facilitate cleaning.

The effectiveness of products are an important consideration. Also, are they safe around animals? Are there any undesirable residual effects such as staining, slippery floors or an offensive odor? Does the product fulfill its claims and work effectively?

Follow label instructions carefully for any detergent or disinfectant used in an animal facility. Dogs should never be allowed to drink the solution. When disinfectants are used, the surfaces should be allowed to dry before dogs are returned to them.

All materials such as empty feed bags and/or unused, broken or discarded equipment should always be removed from the kennel area. This material provides hiding places for insects and rodents and makes cleaning difficult. For easy cleaning of dry particles for hard-surfaced inside areas such as pens, floors and hallways, a commercial-size vacuum cleaner is recommended. This is an efficient, time-saving device for picking up hair, dust, and debris, particularly in cracks, corners and crevices. It also helps prevent dusty conditions that occur when material is swept.

Heaters and air conditioners should be cleaned regularly, filters replaced periodically, and serviced by qualified professionals. Cleaning and servicing such equipment helps eliminate a habitat for many types of microorganisms.

STORAGE AREA

Some type of storage area is necessary for any size kennel. When adequate space is not available for this room, it may be combined with a dog holding area containing cages for female dogs in heat, dogs with minor ailments, etc. The storage area is used to maintain kennel cleaning apparatus and to store items used in the operation of the kennel. A closet with shelves can be constructed to help maintain a neat appearance. Conveniently placed hooks will hold leashes and collars.

WASTE DISPOSAL

Methods
The use of sewage lagoons may not be practical for all types of commercial kennels. A septic tank system, constructed in the same manner as used for residential homes, may be used effectively for a kennel operation. These systems should be installed following the same building codes and regulations in effect for residential property. The septic system's capacity will depend on kennel size and number of dogs maintained, but the system provides efficient waste disposal in areas where sewage lagoons are not feasible.

Another waste disposal method consists of manually picking up and disposing of droppings and then hosing down the runs so that waste drainage enters a small septic system or is flushed into a regular sewer line. In areas where a septic system, sewer line or lagoon cannot be used, the surface material used for kennel runs becomes an important consideration. In these cases, the kennel operator should consider run surfaces such as gravel. Parasite eggs and urine can filter through the gravel layers and be washed away. Solid material should be picked up daily.

Waste Disposal System
A commercial kennel must have an effective waste disposal system. At the Purina Pet Care Center the problem of waste disposal for nearly 1,000 dogs in residence has been greatly minimized through the effective use of sewage lagoons. Lagoons are not permitted everywhere, but where acceptable and where there is sufficient area, they provide an excellent method of handling waste material.

A sewage lagoon is a flat-bottom pond in which solid material is deposited underwater to be broken down by bacterial action. Wastes flow in through a pipe located near the bottom and extending well out into the lagoon. Since waste enters underwater, where bacterial action takes place, there is almost no odor. Cleaning a sewage lagoon may be necessary after 8 to 10 years of use. This can be accomplished with a liquid manure pump or the lagoon can be drained and the solids removed with scrapers after drying. Be certain that the overflow from the lagoon as well as any material pumped out is properly disposed of.

A few important points to remember about this type of waste disposal system:

• Place the sewage lagoon low enough to ensure good drainage from the kennel to the lagoon.
• Divert all surface drainage around the lagoon by means of a terrace or a ditch.
• Allow approximately 35 to 40 square feet of water surface for each medium-size adult dog. Although an exact minimum requirement has not been determined, this water measurement has worked well. State and local codes may govern the amount of water surface area allowed, and this figure may vary depending on the breed and age of dogs.
• Construct a lagoon with 30¡ã sloped sides and a floor as level as possible. Seed or rock the embankments above the water level to hold the soil.
• When locating a lagoon, avoid areas of gravel or limestone, where seepage might occur. If soil is porous, an artificial sealer may be necessary.
• The pipe or tile that discharges sewage into the lagoon should be 6 inches in diameter and have enough slope toward the lagoon so there will be no buildup of solid material anywhere along it. Rest the pipe end on concrete blocks, 17 to 24 inches above the bottom.
• Bacterial action may be slowed or even stopped by excessive amounts of disinfectant or detergent. The amount of these compounds flowing into the lagoon should be limited.
• Erect a fence around the sewage lagoon to keep out children, dogs and other animals.
• Use a secondary lagoon or other provision for overflow control.
• Check with state and local officials for specific restrictions and requirements on construction and maintenance.